At Milan Fashion Week, Francesco Risso delivered yet another captivating collection for Marni that had us laughing, marveling, and pondering all at once. His Fall 2025 presentation, which he affectionately called “The Marni Preservation Hall,” was a kaleidoscopic masterpiece born from collaboration and pure creative mayhem. Picture this: Francesco, Olaolu Slawn, and Soldier Boyfriend—three incredibly talented minds—locked away in a London studio for a month. What emerged from their collective fever dream was nothing short of a fashion explosion, each look rich with narrative and wild imagination.
The show was brimming with vibrant and larger-than-life elements, from whimsical wolves to mischievous pigs flying through the air—think abstract art meets haute couture. These fantastical creatures weren’t just on the walls; they were plastered on the clothes themselves, creating a delightful sense of chaos and wonder. Each outfit seemed to serve as a piece of wearable art, with coats transformed into cozy cocoons and skirts that practically danced with every step. It was fashion, yes, but it was also a celebration of creative freedom and play.
As Risso himself put it, every piece was “a seed vault,” a metaphor for the infinite possibilities of fashion. His genius lies in his ability to blend deconstruction with reconstruction, mixing soft satin with edgy shapes, and layering contrasting styles in ways that should never work—yet totally do. You had luxurious satin dresses bursting with embroidered flowers and gowns that looked like they were born out of a dream, as if fantasy had been stitched into every seam.
But let’s talk about the fun bits: Risso has a knack for mixing in cheeky references. Like when he turned his dear friend and fellow designer Laurence Steele into a living, breathing work of art. Laurence strutted the runway in an Edwardian top coat, complete with fox tail trim—a delightful nod to the absurd, yet totally chic. Then there was Aymeline Valade, who glided down the runway in a gravity-defying red satin gown, adorned with fabric flowers that seemed to drip like a delicate, surreal waterfall. Oh, and the back of that gown? A cheeky pumpkin head print, matching the show’s backdrop. Subtle? Hardly. But utterly perfect in every way.
The magic didn’t end with the clothes. The venue itself was an eccentric, jazz-infused dreamscape. The space was set up to resemble a jazz club, with every single piece of furniture cloaked in hand-painted black-and-white tablecloths and chair covers. It was surreal, unexpected, and a bit like stepping into a world where fashion met art met pure whimsy. Guests were welcomed with Martini vermouth spritzes, setting the tone for an evening that was equal parts fun, fabulous, and fabulously unpredictable.
As Risso told us, this collection was his homage to the Marni brand. “The Marni Preservation Hall” was a celebration of all that the label stands for: bold, boundary-pushing, and, most importantly, never, ever boring.
